The old town of Portomarín stood beside the Río Miño until it was submerged by the Belesar reservoir in 1963. Before the water rose, selected historic buildings and architectural elements were transferred to higher ground at Monte do Cristo, where a new town was laid out around them. The Igrexa de San Nicolao was dismantled, its stones numbered and reassembled, while other monuments survived only in part. When the reservoir is low, remains of the old settlement and its medieval bridge can still emerge from the water.

After crossing the Río Miño, pilgrims continuing without stopping in Portomarín can follow the yellow arrows left, bypassing the town centre. Pilgrims stopping in town should instead climb the Escalinata.

What to see in Portomarín

Igrexa de San Nicolao

The Igrexa de San Nicolao was built in the 12th–13th centuries by the Knights Hospitaller, who controlled and protected the important crossing of the Miño. Its battlements and corner towers give it the unusual appearance of a Romanesque church-fortress, while the main portal shows the influence of Mestre Mateo, the artist responsible for the Pórtico da Gloria in Santiago de Compostela. The church was dismantled and rebuilt here in 1962–63 before the old town was flooded, and numbers used to reassemble the stones can still be seen on its walls.

Escalinata de Portomarín

After crossing the Miño, pilgrims entering the town centre climb the 46-step Escalinata de Portomarín, which incorporates an arch from the old bridge. At the top stands the small Capela das Neves, another structure transferred from the old town before it was flooded. A modern pilgrim superstition says the steps should be climbed without stopping, or risk bad luck in love.